PUJOL & the Ambassador

Day 2  03.28.18

I had been once before–two years prior when I visited with my friend Rachel.  Today’s experience, while similar on some levels to that first visit, was also quite different and extraordinary.  After a quick detour that landed us at their previous location (for some reason the Uber App still takes drivers there), we finally made it to Tennyson 133.

Chef Owner Enrique Olvera opened Pujol more than fifteen years ago, and many credit him for putting Mexican haute cuisine on the culinary map. It routinely lands on best restaurants in the world lists, and is indisputably the best in Mexico City. The culinary world quickly took note, and he has opened two restaurants in New York (high end, slick Cosme, and Atla, a more casual establishment), with Cosme Los Angeles to open soon.

We were seated at the counter for what they call Pujol Barra Tacos–an ambitious set menu of 11 courses.  “Tacos” composed the majority of these courses, and each was paired with a different alcoholic drink, highlighting the rich culinary traditions of Mexican food, wine, spirits and beer.  We left thoroughly impressed and floating on clouds.

#1 Botanas

Our culinary experience began with three botanas, all served at the same time, paired with a margarita.  The third botana, the grilled baby corn, included Chicatana Ants. These are flying ants found in Oaxaca–difficult to catch–and an expensive delicacy.

These are flying ants found in Oaxaca–difficult to catch–and an expensive delicacy.

 

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Elote with powdered Chicatanas, Coffee, and Costeño Chile

#2 Tetela, frijol, quesillo

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#2 paired with a refreshing and quite tasty beer, 159, from Ensenada

#3 Taco de berenjena, hoja santa, garbanzo

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Corn tortilla with a Hoja Santa pressed into it…

#4 Panza de lubina, aguacate tatemado, yuzo (sea bass belly)

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#5 Molote de platano macho y minilla

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Paired with a white wine

#6 Tostada de pata de cerdo, col rostizada, aguacate

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The Pigs Feet tostada paired with another delightful beer from Ensenda: Humpy Humpy, an Amber Ale

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#7 Taco de pato al pastor

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Paired with a red wine from Ensenada

#8 Taco de chile relleno de sudadero, huesillo, aguacate

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#9 Enmolada, tortilla de Hoja Santa

The last savory dish of our exhaustive yet fabulously gratifying meal included Chef Olvera’s famous Madre Mole.  His Madre Mole is, in effect, a living mole–on March 28 (the date of our lunch at Pujol) the darker mole on the outside was over 1500 days old.  His Madre Mole fluctuates from day to day as new ingredients are added–and it contrasts sharply with the newer mole it is paired with.

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For dessert, the super accommodating staff moved us to the serene outdoor garden. By this time Sabian had discovered that seated directly next to us was Roberta Jacobson, the US Ambassador to Mexico, along with her husband. Jacobson had just made headlines–announcing her departure from the position after a two year stint. This resignation from a Veteran diplomat comes at a time of increasingly strained relations between Mexico and colossus from the north.  In any case, just prior to dessert, she dashed away to a meeting, leaving her husband in our company. The four of us—my two friends Richard and Sabian and I, along with the ambassador’s husband—enjoyed a delightful conversation whilst partaking in a several desserts.  P.S. No doubt Mrs. Jacobson, and her husband, will be sorely missed by the Mexican diplomatic community.

#10 Sorbet de pulque y nopales curados

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#11 Gelatina de almendras, hierbas del huerto

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Pujol w: Richard & Sabian

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